... the little Who stockings all hung in a row

I made a felted stocking pattern a couple of years ago for my cats, that's right, my cats. I have since made one for my husband and my daughter. Do you like how the cats were the first to get a stocking? Are my priorities in order or what?? The names were added after the fact using needle felting. As always, please feel free to use the pattern as it was intended. Knit as many of these as you want for your friends and family. Share the pattern with your knitting peeps, but please don't try to make a dime off of my hard work that I'm sharing with you for free. Because that just wouldn't be very cool, now would it? Without further delay, here is the stocking...

A Very Kitty Christmas

Needle Felted Christmas Stocking

A felted project for advanced beginner knitters, using double pointed needles!

© Heidi Eikenhorst

Materials:

MC: 2 skeins of Cascade 220 - Red #2413

CC1:1 skein of Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Worsted Weight Wool - Cream or White

(CC1 is used to make a non-felted cuff, should you choose the felted cuff option, you will need to substitute the cream/white for another color as they do not felt. Alternatively, you can use the yarn specified for CC2 for the felted cuff as well, just add an additional ball of year for the extra yardage.)

CC2: I ball of Reynolds Andean Alpaca Regal – White (If choosing to use a different type of white wool, please first verify that the white wool will felt. Many white wools will not felt. The Reynold’s Alpaca felts very easily and the red does not seem to bleed into it as much as it has using Cascade 220)

NV: 1 ball of Trend Setter Coconut - Perla or another novelty in color to match cuff (cuff can also be knit without a novelty yarn quite successfully)

All wools are worked as a single strand.

Needles:

Size US 11 circular needles, 16 inch

Size US 11 Double Pointed Needles (DPN)

FinishedDimensions:

21” from toe to top

Gauge:

4 sts./inch. in Stockinette Stitch. Note: Gauge is not as important with felted projects.

Abbreviations:

ssk - slip, slip, knit. Slip two stitches one at a time as if to knit, slide left needle through the front of both stitches, wrap yarn around back needle and knit.

K2tog - Knit 2 together

RS - Right side

Cuff Option 1 (non-felted):

With one strand of CC1, one strand of NV, and size 11 circular needles, CO 90 Stitches, place marker. Join into the round without twisting. Work in Stockinette Stitch for 13 rounds. On round 14 *k1, k2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end of round. Bind off knit-wise. Set cuff aside. You will not attach the cuff until after you have felted the body of the stocking.

Leg Option 1:

With one strand of MC and size 11 circular needles, CO60 stitches. Place marker and join into the round, making sure not to twist. Work in Stockinette Stitch until leg measures 30 inches from the top (approximately 95 rows).

Cuff Option 2 (felted):

With one strand of CC1 (make sure you are using a color or a beige, like “Aran” that will felt. You may also choose to use the yarn specified for CC2 to make a felted white cuff), one strand of NV (in coordinating color), and size 11 circular needles, CO 90 Stitches, place marker. Join into the round without twisting. Work in Stockinette Stitch for 19 rows. On the next row cut CC1 and NV and join one strand of MC. Next row: *k1, k2tog* rep from * to * until end of row. You have now switched to the color you will use for the leg of the stocking. Your cuff will be attached to the leg and will be felted with the rest of the stocking at the end of the project.

Leg Option 2:

Continue to work with one strand of MC in Stockinette Stitch until leg measures 30 inches from the top (approximately 95 rows).

Heel:

Slip first 15 stitches onto 1^st DPN. Slip next 30 stitches onto 2^nd DPN (these are your instep stitches). Slip last 15 stitches onto 3^rd DPN. Next knit first 15 stitches onto 3^rd DPN (these 15 sts, in combination with the last 15 stitches are your heel stitches). Break MC and join one strand of CC2. Work theses 30 heel stitches in stockinette stitch with CC2 for 4 inches, ending on a RS (knit) row.

Turn heel:

Continue working with one strand of CC2.

Row 1: P17 sts, p2tog, p1.

Row 2: Sl1, k5, k2tog, k1.

Row 3: Sl1, p6, p2tog, p1.

Row 4: Sl1, k7, k2tog, k1.

Row 5: Sl1, p8, p2tog, p1.

Continue to work in this manner, slipping the first stitch, knitting/purling two together across gap, then working 1 stitch and turning, until all stitches have been worked, and only 18 stitches remain.

Heel Gusset:

Break CC2. With RS facing use size 11 circular needles and one strand of MC to pick up and knit 12 stitches on left side of heel flap, place marker. Then knit the 30 instep stitches off of the DPN onto the circular needle and place another marker of the same color. Next, pick up and knit 12 stitches on the other side of the heel flap. Knit 9 heel stitches off of the DPN onto the circular needle, place marker of a different color (notes the beginning of round), then knit remaining 9 heel stitches onto the circular needle. Knit to the end of the round then work decreases as follows:

Round 1:Knit to within three stitches of first marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker. Knit 30 stitches, slip marker. K1, ssk, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: Knit

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 an additional 3 times. 64 stitches total.

Foot:

Knit even with one strand of MC until foot measures 7 ½-8 inches from the beginning of heel gusset (from the start of MC).

Toe:

Break MC and join one strand of CC2. Work as follows switching to DPN when stitches no longer fit on circular needle:

Round 1: Knit to within three stitches of first marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker. K1, ssk, knit to within 3 stitches of next marker, k2tog, k1. Slip marker. K1, ssk, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: Knit

Rnds 3-8: Repeat rounds 1 and 2 and additional 3 times (48 sts. total)

Rnds 9-16: Repeat round 1 (16 sts. total)

Rnds 17-18: Knit to within three stitches of first marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker. K6, slip marker. K1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. (12 stitches total)

Redistribute stitches onto two double pointed needles by keeping 6 instep stitches on one DPN and combining the 3 stitches on either side of the odd-colored stitch marker onto other DPN. Work these 2 sets of 6 stitches together using kitchener stitch. If you would prefer to avoid using kitchener, you can do the following. Knit together the first stitches off of each needle. Knit together the second stitches off of each needle, then slip the first stitch over the second stitch. This binds off one stitch. Repeat knitting stitches together while binding off until only one stitch remains. Cut 6 inch tail and run tail through remaining stitch and pull tight. Weave loose ends in on the wrong side.

You are now ready to felt! Follow the felting instructions on the insert.

Felting:

Felting is the process used to turn a knitted work, with defined stitches into a melded fabric with no definable stitches. If you’ve ever tried to wash a wool sweater you have seen that wool shrinks and becomes, for lack of a better word, “matted”. When we felt our wool projects we are shrinking the wool and eliminating the defined stitch work. This accomplishes several things. First, for beginner knitters, it hides mistakes that you might have made while knitting. Second, and more importantly, it makes our material more sturdy and durable. Finally it gives our project the right look. When felting with a novelty, your individual stitches essentially disappear, leaving you with a background material (the wool) with fun splashes of color and texture emerging from the material.

When your knitted stocking and cuff are completely finished weave in all loose ends. Place your stocking in a zippered pillow case or in a zippered delicates bag (this step is to protect your washer and pipes from becoming clogged with wool). If you have opted for Cuff Option 1, don’t worry, we will stitch the non-felted cuff onto the stocking after felting, for now set the cuff aside and do not put it into the washer with the stocking. For those who used Cuff Option 2, the cuff is attached to the stocking and will be felted at the same time as the stocking.

Next set your top loading washer to the smallest load size and the hottest setting. Add a small amount (1/4 tsp. or so) of regular detergent (any kind is fine, Tide, All, etc., just no bleach) to the wash basin. If your stocking contains bold colors and you are concerned about fading and bleeding add a cap full of white vinegar to the wash basin as well, while this helps with most color combinations, you will still get some bleeding with a red and white combination. Once the basin has filled with water, add your zippered pillow case/bag containing you project and let the washer do its thing. Note that felting will work best if your washer is set to the highest agitation cycle (i.e. heavy or normal wash). Do not use a delicates setting, we don’t want to coddle our wool, we want to make it tough! Set a timer for five to ten minutes and return to check on your project. Return to the washer every five minutes thereafter to check on the status of the felting process. Depending on washers and water temperature, your project could take anywhere from 10 minutes to 30 minutes to felt completely. Make sure that each time you check the washer you move the dial to the beginning of the agitation cycle so that it does not have the opportunity to go into the rinse cycles.

Once your project is felted to your satisfaction, you may switch your washer over to the shortest rinse/low spin cycle so as to spin out the excess water. If you have slightly over-felted your project you may want to skip this step as a tiny bit of felting will continue. You may be asking, “How will I know when my project is felted?” which is a very good question. It largely depends on personal taste and will take some experimentation on your part to find the amount of felting that you like the best. Practicing with some swatches of knitted wool may help you decide what level of felting you like the best. I consider a project felted when I can no longer see the defined stitches. However, some people like a looser felt and like to be able to see a little stitch definition. Ultimately it comes down to personal preference. As long as your finished project is sturdy and stiffer than before felting you are on the right track. Once you are finished felting, take your stocking out of the zippered pillow case. Mold the stocking into the desired form and (if using Cuff Option 2) fold the cuff over the stocking at the point where the cuff color meets the stocking color. Mold your stocking to desired shape and dry flat on a towel. Once dry, follow “Post-Felting Instructions.”

Post Felting Instructions:

For both cuff option, using preferred cord method (knit, crochet, braided, or knotted) make a looped hanger & two lengths of cord. Next make two pom-poms and attaché to the ends of the two cords. Set aside and follow directions below.

Cuff option 2 only: At the middle of the back of the leg, just inside the edge of the stocking on the leg color, cut a small slit (approx1/4”) using sharps scissors. Tuck the ends of the cords and hanger through this slit. This will leave the cords and hanger coming out of the top of the stocking. Turn the cuff up at the place where you made the slit. Stitch the ends of the cord and hanger to the leg of the stocking. Once the cuff is turned back down, your ends will be hidden.

Cuff option 1 only:

With a tapestry needle, stitch your cuff (making sure to leave a ½ inch section in the middle of the back of the leg unstitched) onto the top of your stocking using one strand of CC1 and ones strand of NV, making sure to evenly gather the top of the cuff as you match it to the edge of the stocking. This will give your cuff a nice, full, slightly ruffled look. Next, tuck the ends of the cords and hanger through the unstitched section of cuff. This will leave the cords and hanger coming out of the top of the stocking. Turn the cuff up at the place where you inserted the ends of the hanger and cords and stitch the ends of the cord and hanger to the leg of the stocking. Once the cuff is turned back down, your ends will be hidden. Close up this gap by stitching closed this small section of cuff. In order to disguise the seam, stitch around the top several times around with NV only. Next with one strand of CC1 and tapestry needle, weave yarn around the bottom edge of cuff, using small stitches on the front of the cuff and large stitches (about one inch) on the back of the cuff.. Pull gently on both ends of the yarn that has been woven through the cuff bottom, drawing the cuff into the body of the stocking and work with the cuff until it is gathered and pulled in to your liking. Once this is achieved, tie a knot and weaves the ends into the bottom edge of cuff.

Now your stocking is finished!! Have fun decorating your stocking with your favorite embellishments, or try needle felting a name or decorations directly onto the leg! For needle felting I use the Fiber Trends Needle Felting Starter kit!